Barrancabermeja, Colombia

Barrancabermeja is blessed with few things aside from being home to Colombia’s largest refinery. Everywhere you go in the city it is as if you can see the towering smoke stacks spewing out contaminants. And the heat, oh the heat, walk out in the streets in the midday sun at your peril as temperatures are routinely in the upper 30s if not breaking the 40 barrier. But, this said, river travel on the Magdalena is set to grow in coming years and makes for an interesting option as opposed to making ubiquitous bus journeys between the major sites. As Barrancabermeja sits right on the banks of the River Magdalena, there is every possibility that tourism will grow here as a point to break the journey on to Puerto Berrío, Ibague and Honda.

The city is known for its amalgam of cultures since over the years people from every Colombian region have made their way here in order to benefit from the oil wealth and prevalence of jobs that came along with the bonanza. On Friday and Saturday nights the clubs in the downtown zona rosa are thumping with salsa, reggaeton, Vallenato, Papayera and any kind of music you might wish to hear. Unfortunately the city has gained fame in the last 30 years as a hotbed of ELN, FARC and AUC activities.

Should you find yourself in Barrancabermeja, then catch a ride out of town some 25 minutes to the Cienaga San Silvestre where you can seek some respite from the merciless heat by taking a swim in the lake. On weekends this area is very popular with families descending upon the area to cook up massive cauldrons of sancocho over open fires, drink beers and slumber in hammocks blown by the refreshing breeze found here. You can also waterski; rent a jetski or canoe here.

If you don’t have the opportunity to get out of the town centre then head to the Avenida del Rio at lunchtime on any given day – Sunday is the busiest – to try some local specialties of Bagre and Bocachico caught that morning in the Magdalena.

Hostels...
Most hotels cater to engineers who are brought in on contracts, a good option for those on a budget is the following:

Hotel San Cristobal
Calle 50 no 12-36
Tel: 07 622 4346






photos
Report & Photography by: Richard McColl
You might need...
Banks & Internet - You should have no problem locating an internet café or a cash machine downtown. Please exercise caution when withdrawing money as Barrancabermeja has seen a nasty upturn in robberies of people withdrawing cash.
How 2 get there...
There is no Bus Terminal to speak of but all companies have offices on Carrera 5. For those with no time restraints you might want to head down to the river and see about River transport. Boats can be caught from here to El Banco, Magangue and Mompox and to Puerto Berrío.