The Tatacoa desert which lies about an hour North-East of the city of Neiva is a spectacular landscape and a stark contrast to the lush vegetation which covers the rest of the region. Accessible from the village of Villa Vieja, this makes an enjoyable detour on the Bogota to San Agustin route or as part of the Popayan, San Agustin, Tierradentro circuit.
Named after a now extinct, deadly snake, the Tatacoa offers quite a varied landscape. Turning a bend in the road, the traveller is suddenly faced with rippled, rusty coloured slopes, cacti up to 7 metres tall and bizarre rock formations jutting out of the red soil. With the racing Rio Magdalena only just out of view and the snow topped Nevado de Huila on the Western horizon, it seems a very strange place for a desert!
The first and probably most popular site is El Cuzco, where the earth is a rich red colour and jagged, natural formations shape the surroundings. This is where the observatory can be found and demonstrations of the night sky can be arranged for 4,000 - 5,000 Pesos per person. There is also a cafeteria and small shop selling jam and boiled sweets made from cactus juice.
The other sites have grey sand and are a bit further away and visitors may consider taking a motorbike tour to visit the natural pools or some of the more distinctive rock formations.
The desert is a great place for camping as the authorities don't charge campers to sleep out under the clearest, starriest sky in the country and by waking up at sunrise, visitors can make the most of the cooler parts of the day. Temperatures regularly rise to 40'C at midday.
Hostels...
Hotel La Casona
Calle 3 No 3-60
Tel: 8 879 7636
Calle 3 No 3-60
Tel: 8 879 7636
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Cabanas Tatacoa
From the observatory at El Cuzco, continue along the road to find the cabins on the left just after the observatory.
From the observatory at El Cuzco, continue along the road to find the cabins on the left just after the observatory.
Tours...
In Villa Vieja travellers will be approached and offered tours, accommodation, guide service non-stop from the moment they arrive. Tours are often over priced and not always good value. Prices start at 20,000 Pesos per person. A DIY option is to try to arrive in Villa Vieja in the afternoon and walk straight out to El Cuzco. It's about an hours walk and in the late afternoon, the heat shouldn't be too bad. There are some basic cabins there and the possibility of camping. Take food and supplies though as it may be difficult to find something out there. This allows visitors to experience the observatory and make the most of the sunrise and cooler morning in the desert.
Javier Fernando Rua Restrepo
The main guide at the observatory who also rents out tents for 10,000 Pesos so you can camp in the desert.
Tel: 310 465 6765
The main guide at the observatory who also rents out tents for 10,000 Pesos so you can camp in the desert.
Tel: 310 465 6765
photos
How 2 get there...
The best way to access the Tatacoa is through Villa Vieja, an hour from Neiva. From the village, there is a paved road all the way to El Cuzco which is possible to do on foot. Otherwise, mototaxis or maybe horseback would be alternatives.
For a more adventurous journey to Bogota, ask in Villa Vieja about the canoe trip and walk that takes you to the next town from where you can pick up a bus to Bogota and avoid heading back to Neiva.
For a more adventurous journey to Bogota, ask in Villa Vieja about the canoe trip and walk that takes you to the next town from where you can pick up a bus to Bogota and avoid heading back to Neiva.
